Things to Do at Maccarthy Square
Complete Guide to Maccarthy Square in Banjul
About Maccarthy Square
Maccarthy Square sits at the civic heart of Banjul, a rectangle of clipped grass and low iron railings that has served as the capital's ceremonial gathering ground since Captain Alexander Grant laid it out in the 1820s, back when the settlement still went by Bathurst. The air here tends to be thick and salty, carried off the Gambia River a few blocks north, and on quiet weekday mornings you might hear little more than the rasp of a groundskeeper's rake against laterite soil and the distant call to prayer drifting from the surrounding mosques.
A war memorial and an old fountain anchor the green, and the low colonial facades of government buildings press in on three sides, their whitewashed walls catching the equatorial glare. The square is named after Sir Charles MacCarthy, a British governor who campaigned against the slave trade in the early nineteenth century.
Under Yahya Jammeh's presidency the name was changed to July 22nd Square, marking the date of the 1994 coup. But after Adama Barrow took office the historic name came back into everyday use.
For most of the year Maccarthy Square is a calm, slightly formal pause in a city that already feels more subdued than the tourist strip down the coast. The grass is fenced off, which gives it a preserved, almost museum-like quality compared to the loose energy of Albert Market a few streets away. That changes on Independence Day and during national holidays, when grandstands go up, marching bands file down Independence Drive, and the square fills with the smell of attaya tea brewing on charcoal stoves at the edges of the crowd.
Cricket matches have been played here too, a leftover from the colonial period that still draws a knot of spectators on occasion. Banjul as a whole is compact enough to walk. Maccarthy Square makes a natural starting point for exploring the older quarter on foot.
What to See & Do
War Memorial and Fountain
Standing near the centre of the square, the war memorial is a slender, lace-like stone structure raised to honour soldiers from the First World War. Beside it, a fountain dating from the 1930s adds a touch of faded colonial ornament to the lawn. Neither is grand in the way that purpose-built national monuments tend to be, and that is part of their appeal. The stonework has weathered to a soft grey-cream, and on overcast afternoons the memorial catches a quiet, melancholic light that rewards a slow walk around its base.
The Quadrangle
Pressing against the square's edge, the Quadrangle is a whitewashed government compound whose verandahs and louvred shutters look almost unchanged from British administrative days. You will likely see uniformed officials coming and going, and the contrast between the cool shade under the overhanging roof and the bright, exposed grass of the square itself is striking. It is a working building rather than a tourist attraction, so you can admire the facade but entry is restricted.
Anglican Cathedral
On the western corner of the square, the Anglican cathedral rises modestly above its neighbours, its corrugated iron roof and stone walls a reminder that Banjul's colonial-era churches were built for utility in a tropical climate, not Gothic drama. Step close enough and you can feel the temperature drop in the shade of its entrance porch. Inside, the wooden pews creak underfoot and the stained glass filters the harsh midday sun into something gentler. Services still draw a small congregation, and visitors are generally welcome outside of worship hours.
Independence Drive
This boulevard runs from Maccarthy Square toward the outskirts of the old town, and walking its length gives you a sense of how compact Banjul is. Vendors sell roasted groundnuts from metal trays, the warm, toasty smell mixing with diesel fumes from the shared taxis that rattle past. The buildings along the drive alternate between faded colonial shopfronts and newer concrete blocks, and you will pass small tailoring shops where the clatter of sewing machines spills out onto the pavement.
Practical Information
Opening Hours
Maccarthy Square is an open public space, so there is no formal opening or closing time. The surrounding government offices keep standard weekday hours, roughly eight in the morning until four in the afternoon. The grass itself is fenced off most of the time, so your visit is a walk around and through the perimeter rather than a picnic on the lawn.
Tickets & Pricing
No ticket or entry fee is required. The square is freely accessible at any time. During national celebrations and Independence Day, grandstands are set up and some areas may be cordoned off. But viewing is still free.
Best Time to Visit
Early morning is the most comfortable window, before the heat builds past the point where standing in an open square feels punishing. The light is softer before nine or so, and you will catch government workers crossing the square on their way to the Quadrangle. If you time your visit for Independence Day in February, the square transforms with parades and crowds, though shade is scarce and the sun by midday can be fierce. The cooler dry season from November through February is the most pleasant stretch for any walking in Banjul.
Suggested Duration
Most visitors spend around twenty to thirty minutes at the square itself, enough to circle the memorial, look at the cathedral, and take in the surrounding buildings. If you combine it with a walk down Independence Drive and a stop at Albert Market, a comfortable half-day fills out easily.
Getting There
Banjul is small enough that most visitors reach Maccarthy Square on foot from wherever they happen to be staying in the old town. If you are coming from the coastal resort areas around Kololi or Kotu, shared taxis and minibuses run into Banjul along the main highway and drop passengers near the ferry terminal or Albert Market, both of which are a short walk from the square.
A private taxi from the tourist strip costs more than a shared ride but saves time and avoids the cramped seating. The Banjul ferry from Barra on the north bank lands at the terminal roughly a kilometre from the square, and the walk along Liberation Avenue is straightforward. For whatever reason, Banjul's streets tend to be quieter than you would expect of a national capital, so navigating on foot feels safe and unhurried even for first-time visitors.
Things to Do Nearby
This imposing concrete arch marks the entrance to Banjul from the mainland side and commemorates a turning point in modern Gambian history. Climbing to the upper level rewards you with sweeping views across the city's low rooftops to the wide, brown sweep of the Gambia River. It pairs well with the square because the two landmarks bookend the old town and you can walk between them in under fifteen minutes.
A few blocks from the square, Albert Market is where Banjul's commercial energy concentrates. Stalls crowd together along narrow alleys selling shimmering fabrics, ground spices, leather goods, and fresh produce. The bargaining is expected and generally good-natured. Go in the morning. Vendors are still setting out their displays and the heat has not yet peaked. That is when you get the best experience.
A compact three-storey museum on Independence Drive that covers the country's history from pre-colonial times through independence. Temporary exhibitions sometimes feature work by local artists. The collection is modest but gives useful context if you have just arrived in the country, and the building itself is mercifully cool compared to the street outside.
The river crossing from Banjul to Barra is an experience in its own right. The wide, silty Gambia River stretches out ahead as vehicles, cyclists, and foot passengers jostle for space on the aging ferries. Even if you are not heading north, watching the loading process from the quayside is an absorbing slice of daily life in the capital.
The presidential compound lies within walking distance. You cannot enter. But the perimeter is worth passing on a stroll through the old town for the contrast between its guarded formality and the relaxed pace of the surrounding residential streets, where chickens wander across unpaved lanes and children play football against crumbling compound walls.
Tips & Advice
Tours & Activities at Maccarthy Square
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